Saturday 3 April 2004

New Zealand 2004


GILS AND JULES TRIP TO NEW ZEALAND – SOUTH ISLAND

APRIL 2004

3rd April 2004 
Arrived Long Term Car Park 7.10am we only had to wait 10mins for shuttle bus to the International Airport.  Bus arrived airport 7.40am.  We booked in our luggage although Jules bag overweight there were no problems.  Had brekkie at Maccas walked around shops then went to boarding gate area.  More security forms to complete show passports etc this is certainly different than domestic.  Guess who got caught at the gate this time – good old Gil – his shoes were a security risk ha-ha I had the last laugh.  We boarded the plane no hassles one of the first on.  It was a 2.75 hr flight the only scenery the Tasman Sea.  About half hour from Christchurch we finally saw land, the west coast of New Zealand we actually flew over Hokitika.  Gil was overwhelmed with the high mountain peaks and craters from extinct volcanoes.  After about 10 mins we were flying over the Canterbury Plains what a sight just like a patch work quilt.  Smooth landing in ChC, went through customs all luggage x-rayed very strict looking for food, animal or plant products.  Phoned Omega car hire had a 10-15min wait to be picked up.  We were given a Nissan Bluebird, colour silver it was excellent.   The people at the office of Omega gave us a map and instructions on how to get out of ChC.  Gil navigated he was great we found our first motel A1 Elizabeth Park at New Brighton.  It was a lovely outlook on to the Avon River.  

After unloading we went for a short walk and took some pictures.  We decided to have dinner out our first night walk across the road to the Cock N Bull pub.  The meal was excellent they serve big helpings over in NZ.  We could only just manage entrée and main on getting ready for bed Jules realised she left her jacket behind not a good start poor old Gil had to get dressed and being the gentleman he is went back to get the jacket.

4TH APRIL
Christchurch to Dunedin
After a restless night we left at 6.00am this was to be our longest driving day so we decided to get away early.  We were given good instructions on how to get around
ChC without having to go through the city centre.  Gill drove out the first morning with leaving early there was not much traffic on the road and we thought this was good.  We did have one little fright we were caught behind a truck carrying bales when we saw sparks coming from underneath the truck, next two wheels came sailing off and were running along the guard rail.  Gil dropped back and indicated to the drive of the truck there was something wrong.  By the time the driver could stop the truck one of the wheels had changed direction and went across the road onto the wrong side fortunately there was no traffic coming towards us at that time.  The truck finally stopped in a bad position on the road we got around and went on our way - not a good start.  The rest of the day was incident free.  We drove through Ashburton, Geraldine

 



and Fairlie all farming areas,  many many sheep, deer, ostrich, alpacas this took us inland away from the coast.  Drove onto Lake Tekapo

 

the scenery was beautiful, the lake was aqua blue and on the banks is the Church of the Good Shepherd
 

a quaint little church which has been there for many years and is very popular for weddings.  Not far from this is a statue of the collie dog which represents the working dog in the area many years ago, had morning tea here then drove onto Mt Cook.

 

We stopped briefly on Lake Pukaki



where three German girls took our photo.  Again this lake was beautiful.  The drive to Mt Cook was spectacular the mountains has snow on the tops and as we drove along the valley to the Hermitage Hotel they just seemed to be overwhelming.  We walked around the Hotel area for a little while took more photos then Gil decided he would have a go doing a walk in the Tasman Valley.

 

  

We drove to the area which said 10 mins to the Blue Lake and a further 30 mins to the Tasman Glacier.  Unfortunately we did not make the glacier it was a fairly steep climb but we did reach the lake which was not really blue but green, that was some decent exercise for the day.  We drove back along the road from Mt Cook then onto Twizel a town built for the Hydro Electric scheme a neat little place all the same.  We had lunch and a fuel stop here then onto Omarama then turned towards the coast again to Omaru.  We stopped at New World for groceries, and then Jules was accused of racing young hoons to Dunedin, likely.  On the way to Dunedin we stopped at the Moraki Boulders

 







these were spectacular even though it was late in the afternoon, it was a little chilly down on the beach.

5TH APRIL
Dunedin and surrounds.  Lachnach Castle.  We left motel 8.15am arrived Lachnach Castle 8.40am. We travelled along Portobello Road which follows the harbour foreshore, very scenic.  We actually caught the Dunedin peak hour about the same as Blacktown Saturday afternoon.  The cost of getting into the Castle was NZ$15.00ea, this is a magnificent building and outlook. 









The inside of the castle has been restored to its original state and looks wonderful and now they are working on the grounds which also are looking great.  The grounds overlook the harbour and foreshore absolutely picturesque would visit this again.  We returned to Dunedin via Highcliff Road which also gave us great views of the harbour it was a little rainy but this did not dampen our enthusiasm.  We were off to find Baldwin Street

 

the steepest street in the world.  We drove around Dunedin (Gil navigating) a very old beautiful city found Baldwin Street we should have driven down, but we sat in the car and just looked at it, it was so scary.  We took photo to prove we were there and went to the souvenir shop which gives you a certificate (NZ2) with our names on it to say same.
Our next stop the railway station



to catch the train to Taieri Gorge.  Again the map we had showed a parking lot right next to the station this was great.  We did not have enough coins for meter and got a little tangled up with the paying set and it cost a little more than it should but we worked it all out.  We booked in and the train was waiting for all to board.  We took photos and went to our allocated seats it was great there was a booth with a table in between and the next carriage in front of us was the snack bar (not good) they sold sandwiches, hot food, hot and cold drinks, snacks etc well set up.  The train was very old fashioned but suited where we going.  Some passengers were going onto Queenstown and they would connect with a bus at Pukerangi Railway Station.  We were fortunate enough to have a couple from Adelaide sit opposite us so we had a good old mag on the trip, there names were Shirley and Neil.  The trip was excellent commentary along the way on the history of the areas we passed.  There were landings each end of the carriage so photos could be taken we travelled over the Taieri Plains, through various tunnels and over viaducts some 34 metres high and all build many years ago with primitive tools these people were amazing.  









The whole trip was great.   There was a group from a bus in our carriage and the tour leader was not a nice person.  She had an argument with the ladies in the snack carriage and expected them to serve her people hand and foot so when for safety reasons they rejected she was not a nice person loud and abusive.  Gil decided he would mimic her attitude and unfortunately she was close by which brought us to such laughter he is such an idiot.  On our return we decided to have a little look around the city centre.  We parked at the Octagon the shops are open after 5pm very busy.  We decided to have fish and chips for tea which was wrapped in newspaper, have not seen this for years and then go to the Peninsula to find some penguins, unfortunately it started to rain so we gave the penguins a miss, but maybe we should have persevered.


6TH APRIL
Dunedin to Te Anau We left Dunedin 6.00am,



Jules drove not much traffic and a great run to Balclutha.  We could see snow on the high mountain peaks and it was a little chilly.  Stopped at Balclutha for fuel, coffee and change of drivers all the towns are very country even the larger ones.  You are no sooner out of the main centre and it is farmland, heaps sheep and deer farms.  The sheep lot quite spectacular as there are so many in one paddock and all you see is white dots from a distance.  The area is very green and beautiful to drive through.  The South Island had a cold front move in on our second day and this brought early snow so the mountains were particularly beautiful for the time of the year.  We actually ran into a little snow on our drive to Te Anau and this brought great excitement for us, between Mossburn and The Key, it was actually on the ground near the road.  Not a lot but good to see.  We arrived Te Anau at lunchtime it is a beautiful place situated on Lake Te Anau



our motel faced the lake.  The little township is well laid we found everything we needed we only had to walk from the motel.  Our first tour was to the Glow Worm Caves at 2.30pm this was quite exciting.  We caught a boat from Real Journeys office which is right on the lake there was a full boat load approx 75 people.  



The boat took us along and over the lake, the entire length of this lake is 66km, awesome, it is the second largest lake in NZ.  It was raining to start with and quite cold but the sun managed to come out later in the afternoon.  Real Journeys have a small office on the other side of the lake which has a room which we were shown a slide show of the caves and the history of the formation.  Our big group was broken down into smaller groups of 12 or 13 and then we were taken into the cave with a guide.  We were in the second group to go in at the beginning we had to bend low to get under the rocks to walk along a path for a short distance, and we could hear rushing water.  It only sparingly lighted.  At this point  we had to get into a flat bottom boat to move to the next landing, the guide pull the boat along by standing at the front and pulling along a rope line with his hands.  We got off the next landing and this is where the water falls, some stalactites or mites, large cave pools it was really fascinating.  We moved along the walkway further into the cave then into another boat this time it was pitch black as we were going into the Glow Worm grotto.



Our guide asked us to be very quiet and just to absorb the sight of the glow worms and the darkness, it was eerie but beautiful, it made you feel a little disorientated.  Again he pulled the boat by a rope backwards and forwards so we could see the glow worms from all angles.  Finally we had to return to the beginning we were given coffee to warm us up and to wait for the rest of the groups to have there turn.  We walked around the forest area it was very mossy with little birds flying around, fungi growing on rotten logs, very interesting.   We had our first go on the internet in Te Anau not real successful the first time we then went to a camera  shop which was set up with about twenty computers this was well set out and easy to use including being able to send photos home, we will look out for this sort of set up in future.  Julianne had to do some house work today, the washing never any rest for the lady.


7TH APRIL
Our trip to Milford Sound, which in fact is not a sound but a fiord, we were looking forward to this trip so much so we left at 6.30am and took it slowly to Milford Sound.  The day was dry but there was plenty of cloud covering the mountains which was a little disappointing for photos. We stopped at Mirror Lakes,

 

Lake Gunn, Falls Creek took many photos of the mountains when the sun started to appear.







We arrived at the Sound by 9.00am and went into the Visitors Centre had morning tea and to find out where we had to go to meet the boat for our trip.  We had about 3/4hour wait, it was a little chilly but not too bad.  Our boat was called the Lady Stirling.  We went to the Underwater Observatory



which was very interesting getting the story on the under water coral gardens and the local fish population.  





After this we went up the sound to the entrance where it meets the Tasman Sea.  This was a great trip waterfalls, high mountains, seals, everything as totalling amazing.  Mitre Peak, Stirling Falls, Copper Point Bowen Falls etc



8TH APRIL
Doubtful Sound we were a little sceptical on how we would cope with today’s trip after been on a boat trip the day before.  We left Te Anau at 8.15am and took our time to get to Manapouri. 

 

Booked into Real Journeys had a coffee, picked up our ordered lunch which was provided for us. Our lunch consisted of two bagels with delicious filling, cakes, chocs and fruit.  We had complimentary tea and coffee supplied.  First we caught the boat to West Arm across the Lake Manapouri to the visitors centre.  We told these were the last facilities for a couple of hours.  The group divided into two buses where we were taken to the hydro electric centre.

  

This is situated underground through a tunnel. 





We stayed here for about 1/2hr then back out and onto Deep Cove where we caught another boat along Doubtful Sound.  This was very beautiful we went out to Tasman Sea where we saw seals on rocks, beautiful waterfalls etc. 









This also is not a sound but a fiord.  This part of the trip was 3 hours.  Such a great day and different from Milford.

9TH APRIL
Queenstown.  Left Te Anau at 7.50am wanted to leave earlier but a little hard to get out of bed.  It was a misty morning. Foggy and spitting rain we thought our luck with the good weather may be running out.  We had a good run to Queenstown, Gil started the drive and we swapped at Mossburn.  The road again was excellent but we noticed more traffic lots of buses. 





The mountains again close to the road and snow capped they are absolutely beautiful.  Lots of farming until Kingston, home of the Kingston Flyer (train), when Lake Wakatipu comes into view, again the beauty is just amazing.  Queenstown is surrounded by mountains, gold played a big part in its history.  This is a very busy place with lots of activity the thrill seekers paradise.  We drove into the town centre and found the streets to be rather narrow, lots of people and traffic something we have not seen for a few days.  We parked at a Wilson Parking Station as there seemed to be only limited meter parking.  Walked to the Shotover Jet Station and paid for our run then grabbed a coffee, back to the car then off to find our motel.  The Colonial Village Motel




is about 2 minutes drive from the main town centre but what a great site it has.  The rooms are built so they occupiers can look over Spinnaker Bay, the view is just stunning.  We paid for our room, unpacked, went shopping for more food.  Off we go to the Shotover River Jet, Gil was feeling a little nervous although he would not admit it. 
We caught the shuttle bus from the station to Arthur’s Point.  We were supplied with splash jackets and a life jacket, photos taken then onto the jetboat, the excitement begins.

  

We ordered a full photo shoot so we could show everyone how brave we were.  Back at the motel around 3.30pm to get ready to go to dinner up at the skyline restaurant.  We took the Gondola up the mountain it was spectacular straight up, Jules turn to be nervous.  Up at the skyline there was lots happening bungy jumping, chairlift, luge and hang gliding. 



The view over Queenstown from the top was nothing short of magnificent.  Dinner was a buffet, we were shown to a table near the windows so we had a good view and treated very special, and it was wonderful.  The food was delicious lots to eat and a big variety.  We happened to be seated next to a couple from Melbourne, Warrnambool, we had interesting conversation and they took our photo.

 

The ride down was awesome, Queenstown by night.  On returning to our car we drove around a little then returned to the motel.  This has been a very exciting day and again we were blessed with good weather.

10TH APRIL
Queenstown to Arrowtown and Glenorchy.  Left motel 9.00am to head down to wharf to catch steamer to Walter Peak homestead.  We had a boat ride across Lake Wakatipu on the SSS Earnslaw



to the farm and a BBQ lunch.  Weather wise the day started out raining and it looked like it had settled in, but as our luck had been going once on the boat the sun came out.  There appeared to be a number of people on board but mostly Japanese students.  These students were very well behaved there was no trouble at all.  The views again were just magnificent New Zealand has not failed us.  The Walter Peak homestead was stunning, the gardens were beautiful full of flowers and trees in wonderful colour.  We had a demo on the running of the farm, sheep dog work, shearing and feeding the sheep, very interesting.  We were taken over to the house to have lunch again a wonderful experience.  Only eight people had the BBQ lunch we had Aussies (us), Japanese, Hong Kong and another couple who chose not to sit with us all but were Asian. 







We bought some gifts from the souvenir shop took lots of photos and thoroughly enjoyed our trip.  Returned to Queenstown then drove out to Arrowtown an old gold mining town with a Chinese settlement (old).  This was very interesting especially the Chinese settlement



section the housing had been restored and it depicted how the Chinese gold diggers lived, it was a wonder they survived as long as they did.  An interesting look around.  After this we drove to Glenorchy which is about 40km from Queenstown along Lake Wakatipu again the views on the lake were magnificent.  Glenorchy is just a little fishing settlement and deer shooting.  Gill cooked dinner BLT very difficult another great day.

11TH APRIL
Queenstown to Franz Josef.  We left the motel at 7.00am thinking traffic at Wanaka would be bad due to the Warbirds air show. 





We had a good run, lots of farmland the roads again very good.  As we got close to the airport at Wanaka the traffic became thicker and we noticed it had slowed down.  There was lots of activity, police slowing down traffic and asking each occupier of the vehicle whether they were for the show or driving through.   Those staying had a fee of $50 for parking and maybe this was entry too, we moved along slowly we could see the planes park on the edge of the runway so we took photos adlib and hoped they turned out.  We were glad we left early could only imagine how chaotic it would be later in the day.  Arrived Wanaka 8.15am had a quick look around the township of Wanaka then back to Puzzling World our main stop.

 



  





We had a look in and wandered around the various rooms available but we did not go through the maze, Jules was a bit of a chicken.  We had a great time here the rooms gave you different illusions and it was great fun we felt like little kids again.  We had coffee in the shop area where on every table there were about 4 or 5 puzzles people could play with while eating etc. would recommend this place to everybody.  We left Wanaka then made our way to Haast and the Fox Glacier.  It was an excellent road, not much twisting and winding as first thought.  There is not much at Haast just a small stop over mainly for backpackers.  We stopped at Fox Glacier and Gil wanted to walk to the glacier, approx 30mins, it was worth it.

 

The glaciers are an amazing feature, took some photos then walked back to the car where we were fortunate enough to see a couple of Kea birds.  They have a beak like a parrot and this can cause a lot of damage to cars as they peck the rubber eg tyres and the surrounds of the wind shield.  The township of Fox Glacier is mainly accommodation and starting point for flights, we had a late lunch at Fox N Nice Bar & Café, and then drove onto Franz Josef.  Unfortunately the weather started to deteriorate before Fox and did not improve, therefore our heliflight plan did not happen, and we were not disappointed.  We found our motel, the Rata Grove, booked in etc.  We walked around Franz Josef again not very big, mainly accommodation, souvenir shops, one supermarket and flight centres.  Our accommodation was good lots of room.

 

 

There was an eerie incident, Gil was making a cup of tea in our room and like all other motels they supply sugar sachets and the last couple of motels have had them with star signs on the paper cover. Anyway while making our cups of tea he picked up without knowing two sachets of sugar and one was Libra and the other Scorpio, this must be an omen so we have kept them and won’t use them.

12TH APRIL
Franz Josef to Greymouth.  Left Franz Josef at 7.00am, Jules took over driving today.  We had only gone about 10mins and realised we forgot to get petrol, we had little over a quarter tank and thought we may as well keep going.  The road from Franz Josef to Greymouth is excellent despite going through mountains the is mainly straight.  We thought we may be able to buy fuel at Whataroa just north of Franz Josef but at $1.37/lt – no way.  So on we went through a couple more small towns Hari Hari and Ross if you blink you miss them.

  

We got to Hokitika with an almost empty tank petrol here was $1.21/lt a little more reasonable.  Hokitika is the jade mecca of New Zealand so off we went to the jade factory to buy what we wanted, lots of jewellery in paua shell, jade, gold and sterling silver and also jade ornaments.  At the back of the shop front was there little factory where we could observe how the jade is cut and polished and made into jewellery with the various designs very interesting.  We had lunch a Hokitika at the Steamers Bar, we asked for half size roast with vegies, glad we did not have a full one, meals in New Zealand are huge.  Hokitika

 

is on the west coast and therefore looks out over the Tasman Sea and the beach is black sand with lots and lots of drift wood, quite large pieces. 



The wood is washed down to the ocean via the rivers in spring when the snow melts and then the current of the ocean washes it up on all the beaches.  All the beaches along the west coast have drift wood, in fact it looks quite eerie.  After lunch we headed for Shanty Town,

 



a small replica gold mining town which is done up really well.  We were in time to catch the steam train which was very good, the smell of coal in the nostrils does wonders.  There were many buildings all with old furniture and equipment of the time.  After a good look around and lots of photos we went onto Greymouth.  Gil caught sight of our Motel which was on the southern outskirts of Greymouth,



we picked up our key then moved onto to do what we wanted for the rest of the day.  Greymouth is very spread out town on the coast.  We drove north of Greymouth to the Punakaiki Pancake Rocks.





 
There was a 10 min walk to the rocks.  These proved to be a very interesting rock formation.  The ocean was rushing in and forming blowholes between the rocks.  The name pancake can easily be seen, the rocks formed like a stack of pancakes.  Jules and Gil consequently had to try the pancakes at the café, we were not totally bad we shared one serving between us.  On leaving Punakaiki we drove to another gold mining site called Mitchell’s Gold Mining Gully









approx another 25kms onwards.  This place also proved very interesting.   The old mining tools left to rust would make you cry.  I am sure if Gil could have brought some of the tools home he would have.  We walked around a track which is only just maintained into the entrances of mines and over the old trolley track, it was great.  We saw the original water sluice and water wheel and hut etc. where the miners would have lived.  Very enjoyable, now for a change of drivers and back to our motel.  The road from Greymouth north is quite windy it hugs the coast most of the way.  When Jack (Gil) Brabham took over everyone in front just had to get off the road.  There are finger marks in the door handle of the car by Jules.  He assures me he is the perfect driver when the sign says 25km around a corner Gil sees 65km per hour. NO COMMENT.  By the way we did get back to the motel safely.

13TH APRIL
Greymouth, Hanmer Springs and Christchurch.  Greymouth seems a very long way by the time we write this.  We left at 7.15am it was good to get away early.  Gil drove the first leg.  Lots of farmland to Reefton then to Springs Junction where we stopped for smoko.  Yes again we forgot to get petrol so we were on the look out for a petrol station.  Lewis Pass was windy but the road was good, lots of forest area.

 

 

Trhough some smaller townships then onto Hanmer Springs.  The road  into Hanmer Springs crosses a very high bridge where bungy jumping is done and rides on jet boats in the river below.  We stopped at a great lookout and took some photos of the spectacular views.  We had a good time here, it took a little time to find the thermal pools, not a very big sign.  It was $10 each to get in.  The pools were very well laid out, hot pools, sulphur pools and normal lap pools.

 



  

We stayed at the pools for about an hour.  It was good in the water but very chilly walking around.  After getting dressed we had lunch then moved onto Christchurch.  We picked up our key at the motel, dropped off our luggage then headed off to the Gondola.

 





Again this was different to Queenstown but magnificent all the same.  The skyline restaurant and information centre was good, there was a display on the settlement of the area as well as Banks Peninsula and Akaroa and how the Peninsula was formed.  The view was great after coming back to the car we drove into Christchurch to check out where to go for The Tramway Restaurant

 



and Punting.  Back to motel to do some washing and prepare for out night out.  Back into Christchurch to the Tramway Restaurant this was a great way to have dinner, we had a wonderful time.  The service was excellent and the food very delicious, we felt very spoilt.

14TH APRIL
Banks Peninsula, Akaroa, Lyttleton Harbour.  Left at 9.00am later than we thought but this did not matter as today is only a cruising day.  We went to Lyttleton first  stop the drive was beautiful farmland and we could see the Gondola behind Christchurch from the road.  Lyttleton is a working port lots of traffic mainly trucks, some interesting buildings



Buildings very old can imagine the old days noise and people all over the wharves.  Left here and headed for Akaroa approx. 52km.  Good road to Cooptown then became windy.  There was some spectacular scenery of Akaroa and surrounds.  The little township of Akaroa has a French look, streets start with Rue e.g Rue Lavard.

 

  



Had very nice smoko overlooking the water outside the bakery.  Cruises available to see dolphins and to swim with them as well unfortunately we were a little late so something to do next time.  Bought a couple of gifts then returned to Christchurch.  We were off to Willowbank for dinner tonight a restaurant and wildlife park with the idea to see the nocturnal animals.  



We left the motel at 6pm not quite knowing where we were going.  As usual Gil worked out how to get to our destination and being the best navigator there were no hiccups.  Well there was one fault there was only a little sign at the beginning of the road and we missed the turn off would be difficult for most patrons.  We parked the car and inside was a souvenir shop, bar, lunchroom, and dinner buffet set up.  Out the back was the wildlife park.  It looked quite impressive.  At first they could not find our booking which made us feel a little uneasy.  They gave us a table and after about 10mins they found our name and booking therefore all was OK.  Dinner was a buffet and was very well set out and very delicious.  We went for a guided walk through the park to see the nocturnal animals mainly the kiwi. We saw eels, keas, lizards, brown duck which has only 25 pairs alive, two blue ducks both males which is another species of bird on the extinct list.  The kiwis are fascinating they mate for  life and are quite large in real life.  They have plumage like the emu and extremely small wings.  We enjoyed our last night here, this will be a trip to remember.  We have had lots of fun and seen the most beautiful scenery, there are so many superlatives to describe it.  Gils navigating failed we got lost coming back to the motel, have to blame the darkness.

15TH APRIL
Our very last day in Christchurch.  A little sad, also happy great memories, we had a wonderful trip.  We left Al Elizabeth Motel at New Brighton at 9.15am about the time we thought would be good.  Our idea was to take the car back to Omega then walk into Christchurch to finish our touring around the parks.  











We walked around the shops to finish our gift shopping, Gils back was a bit twingy today but we got through the day.  Had smoko at Starbucks then walked along the river by the parks to go punting.  







The park was fabulous, lots of ducks, there is approx 12,000 ducks at any one time and 25,000 in duck season.  After this we went to Maccas which is a little different to Aussieland then back to Omega to catch the shuttle bus to the airport.

  

Again we had great connections no hiccups.  Hoorray NZ we will be back.

Julianne and Gil  

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